This fence calculator will calculate the length and number of pickets, posts, and rails required to build a wood fence.
It will also calculate the post hole size, amount of concrete, gravel and nails required.
To calculate the weight of the lumber, check out the lumber weight calculator.
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This calculator assumes the following:
- Fence sections (fencing between posts) are all equal in length
- Fence height and section length less than 8′
- Max fence length for this calculator is 200′
- Posts are 4×4’s and rails are 2×4’s
Wood Fence Anatomy
The image below shows some of the common components of a typical wood picket fence:
How to Use the Calculator
First figure out how long and tall you want your fence to be. The height of the fence is measure from the ground to the top of the pickets. Standard wood fences are usually anywhere from 4.5′ to 8′ tall.
Next, decide what width pickets you want to use. Wider pickets can give the fence a more modern look, while narrower pickets will make the fence look more detailed.
Decide if you want any gap between pickets. This is purely for aesthetics. Less gap equals more privacy but also means less light that can filter through. If you decide to have gaps make sure they are narrow enough to keep wanted things in (i.e. dogs and children) and unwanted things out.
Then, you will want to decide what size gap to have between the ground and the bottom of the fence pickets. It is important to have a gap here to prevent premature rot of the pickets. Common gap under the fence is 1″-2″.
Next, decide how to attach your fence rails to the fence posts. They can either be face nailed to the posts or toe nailed. A diagram of rails that are toe-nailed can be seen above. Here is what a face nailed wood fence looks like:
Wood Fence Installation Tips and Tricks
- Use pressure treated lumber for posts since they will be in contact with the ground
- An 8″ auger will cut about a 9″ diameter hole which is plenty wide for a 4×4 post and concrete
- A 3″ base of gravel underneath each post allows for water to drain away from the base of the post, preventing wood rot
- Quikrete concrete for fence posts can be mixed in the hole, making for easier post setting and cleanup
- 1, 50# bag of concrete per post is plenty adequate for a fence under 5′ and 2 bags is enough for a fence between 5′ and 8′
- The amount of post buried in the ground should be equal to 1/3 to 1/2 of the fence height for adequate wind resistance and resistance to freeze/thaw cycles
- Cut posts flush with top rail, about 6″ below top of fence
Installing Rails and Pickets
- Pressure treated, cedar, and redwood are common wood choices for rails and pickets
- When the fence is built on a slope, the rails can either be made parallel to the ground or level and stepped up/down a certain amount from section to section
- Space rails so that top rail is about 6″ below top of fence (flush with top of post), bottom rail is about 6″ above bottom of pickets, and middle rail (if applicable) is halfway in between
- If there is no gap left between pickets when the fence is installed, an 1/8″-1/4″ gap will eventually appear due to wood shrinkage. This assumes the wood bought for the fence is not kiln dried first
- Use a framing nail gun to make things go a lot quicker. I’ve used this model to build a couple fences and it has performed very well. It’s also a steal for less than a hundred bucks:
- Use galvanized ring shank nails in conjunction with a nail gun for a quick and efficient way to fasten the pickets to the rails. These are the collated nails I use with the nail gun above: